The first night in the United Arab Emirates, I arrived in the hotel and an employee bringing my luggage greeted me by saying, “Salam Alakem.” I couldn’t decide if he did this thinking that I spoke Arabic based on my middle-eastern appearance or if it was the standard tourist cultural greeting, the same way they say, “Aloha” everywhere you go in Hawaii.
I later realized, the reason was the former and he was one of the few Arab’s I’d end up interacting with during my ten day stay. Less than 20% of the U.A.E.’s population consists of Nationals or Emirati's—leaving 80% to be from Pakistan, India, Philippines, Russia, and everywhere in between. In fact, it’d be hard to attribute a large percentage to one nationality purely based on observations. My cab drivers were Pakistani, hotel clerks were Filipinos, and the restaurant employees were Indian. In some settings, I felt like I was in the United Nations chamber with many different faces and appearances. This can feel neat in the sense of globalization, but confusing in trying to find Abu Dhabi’s culture.
On the second day with my mom in meetings, I decided to do the hop-on, hop-off city bus tour. I’ve always wanted to do the one in New York City, and figured it'd be even better in a city I had yet to explore and knew little about. For a solid 3-hours, I was the only person on the double-decker bus. Although I found out peak season tends to begin in November, I almost felt guilty having the driver drive for so long with only myself riding.
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| A local couple putting their feet in water |
More than half of the tour commentary was devoted not to cultural facts, but to future construction projects. Much of the city’s vision is aimed at creating it’s own version of New York City. You think I’m exaggerating, but NYU recently opened up it's very own campus NYU- Abu Dhabi, and the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi is scheduled to open next year with original pieces from the museum’s basement collection.
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| Abu Dhabi Tour Bus Company |
As I rode around in the bus, toward the man-made Yas Island, and switched between the upstairs seating with the nice view and the air-conditioned downstairs, I noticed many construction workers on the side of the highway starring toward me sitting on the bus. I wasn’t sure if they were intrigued simply by seeing the double-decker bus (the bus company was new to Abu Dhabi), or if their interest was peaked by seeing a lone tourist sitting on the double-decker bus. At one traffic light, I saw a guy sitting on a tractor. We made eye contact and he got out his camera phone and took a picture of me sitting on the top of the bus alone. With my camera in hand, I, in return took a picture of him sitting in a large tractor behind a red light on an empty 6-lane highway.
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| A view from a cafe in Sky Tower of Marina Mall |
Most of the tour’s themes centered around world record’s, almost as though I was on a tour sponsored by Guinness itself. This included the world’s furthest leaning manmade tower, Capital Gate, the world’s most expensive hotel to construct, Emirates Palace, and the Grand Mosque which hold’s the world’s largest chandelier and largest Persian carpet.
I also learned this month the city will see the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferrari World, centered in the heart of the new, world’s largest indoor theme park.
That night, I read a Time Out Abu Dhabi article poking fun at the city’s intensity at record-breaking in a competition against it’s neighboring Dubai and asking if all these Guinness certificates actually adds anything to a visitor’s experience. Although these sites can certainly be interesting, I couldn't help but think, no, it does not add much to a visitor's experience.
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| A father and son at KFC in Abu Dhabi Mall |
Between the lackluster bus tour, talking to random people about places to visit, and my ultra thin Lonely Planet Abu Dhabi guide, it seemed there was little do and see in the city.
Finally, by my third day, I found a new face working the concierge desk, a Russian woman. I pleaded for help—telling her what I had seen, and asked for what else I needed to see. Admittedly, she assured me that I really had seen it all but suggested I go on a camel tour where we drive through sand dunes and ride a camel. Maybe it was the 3-hour drive which made it seem so unappealing.
The truth is I didn’t like Abu Dhabi, and wouldn't consider it as a place to visit for fun in the next ten years. But then again I also realized, Abu Dhabi simply isn’t a recreational destination for the average New Yorker, or for that matter any person from an average American metropolitan city. Abu Dhabi is a destination mostly for the Middle Eastern population—being developed so incredibly behind other established economies, instead of inventing it’s own way, it simply tried to copy what it has seen and what has worked around the world.
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| A picture of a school featured in Heritage Village |
Although it's in many ways unoriginal, the city's approach to development is far from unintelligent. During my stay, the city seemed sleepy and as I saw venues such as the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix gearing up for concerts with big names like Kanye West and Prince in the next few months, I couldn't help but wonder if it's growth and laundry list of world records will help it achieve everything it aims to.
Even being in it's presence is nothing like that vibrant energy of being in places like Hong Kong, Istanbul, or Beirut.
Going to Abu Dhabi was an interesting intercultural experience, but traveling all the way around the world for the innovative skyscrapers, electrifying energy, and thriving nightlife? Well, that’s what I'd expect to get out of Dubai.
This is the first of a two-part piece with the Dubai continuation being published next.
1 comment:
Nice summary and wonderful description :)
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